Aircon Trunking Explained: What Runs Inside the Casing
Trunking appears on every installation quote and almost never gets explained. It is not a pipe. It is a casing carrying several things at once, which is why a stained or sagging run is reporting on its contents rather than on itself.
By Team Snowflake | Updated 16 Sept 2026
Trunking is a casing, not a pipe
Trunking is the plastic casing that hides the pipe run between the indoor unit and the outdoor unit. It is usually white PVC, roughly rectangular, fixed along a wall or under a ceiling line. On a quote it sits beside the piping, and in the flat it is the only part of the route most people ever see.
The word is local trade shorthand, which is why nobody stops to define it. Elsewhere the same casing gets called a line-set cover or a duct; here it is trunking, on every quote, in every message thread with a contractor, and in most complaints about how a finished install looks.
Calling it a casing rather than a pipe changes what you expect of it. A casing cannot leak, lose gas, or choke; everything a run appears to do wrong is done by something inside it. The plastic only decides how visible the problem becomes and how hard it is to reach.
The casing does have two jobs of its own. It keeps the insulation on the refrigerant lines out of direct sun and away from knocks, and it holds the bundle in a fixed line so nothing sags between fixings. Sun and physical damage age exposed insulation fastest, so the casing does real work even though it carries nothing itself.
What runs inside one length of trunking
A trunking run carries four things, not one. Two copper refrigerant lines, the foam insulation sleeved over each of them, the condensate drain line, and in most installs the interconnecting cable that lets the indoor and outdoor units talk to each other. The casing is a bundle holder.
The two copper lines are different diameters and carry refrigerant in different states. The thinner liquid line runs warm. The thicker suction line runs cold, which makes it the one that sweats when its insulation is thin, gapped, or crushed. Both are sleeved in closed-cell foam that has to stay continuous from end to end. A gap the width of a finger at a bend is enough to start a drip.
The condensate drain line is the odd one out because it works on gravity alone. It carries the water the indoor unit pulls out of the room air, and it needs a continuous fall from the fan coil to the discharge point. Nothing pushes that water along. If the route dips, the water sits.
The interconnecting cable usually shares the same casing. It carries power and the signal between the two units, so damage to it shows up as an error code or a unit that will not start, never as water. That is why a nicked cable behind a cover gets blamed on the aircon itself, and why renovation work near a run is worth flagging before it begins.
| Inside the casing | What it does | How its failure shows from outside |
|---|---|---|
| Suction line and its insulation | Carries cold refrigerant back to the outdoor unit | A damp or dripping patch mid-run, worse on humid days |
| Liquid line and its insulation | Carries warm refrigerant toward the indoor unit | Little visible sign, but cooling falls off as heat is picked up on the way |
| Condensate drain line | Carries water off the indoor unit by gravity | Water at a joint or at the low point of the run, worse after long cooling |
| Interconnecting cable | Carries power and the signal between indoor and outdoor | An error code or a unit that will not start, with no water at all |
- Inside the casing
- Suction line and its insulation
- What it does
- Carries cold refrigerant back to the outdoor unit
- How its failure shows from outside
- A damp or dripping patch mid-run, worse on humid days
- Inside the casing
- Liquid line and its insulation
- What it does
- Carries warm refrigerant toward the indoor unit
- How its failure shows from outside
- Little visible sign, but cooling falls off as heat is picked up on the way
- Inside the casing
- Condensate drain line
- What it does
- Carries water off the indoor unit by gravity
- How its failure shows from outside
- Water at a joint or at the low point of the run, worse after long cooling
- Inside the casing
- Interconnecting cable
- What it does
- Carries power and the signal between indoor and outdoor
- How its failure shows from outside
- An error code or a unit that will not start, with no water at all
Why the width of a run is decided once
Trunking comes in a small set of standard widths, and the one chosen at install is close to permanent. Changing it later means stripping the whole run off the wall, so the size is picked on the day against the bundle it carries. The common profiles sit roughly in the 75mm to 150mm range, with wider sections where several pipe pairs share one route.
The failure mode is a run sized to the pipes rather than the bundle. Copper measures small; copper plus foam plus a drain line plus a cable measures a lot larger, and the foam is the part that gives. Force that bundle into a casing that is nominally big enough and the insulation compresses at the tightest point, usually a corner.
Compressed insulation stops being insulation. Closed-cell foam works because of the air trapped inside it, so flattening it to half its thickness does not halve its performance; it removes most of it. The cold line then sits against the casing with room air on the other side, and condensation starts at exactly that point.
The drain line suffers differently. It is flexible, so a tight run kinks it rather than crushing it, and a kink holds a small pool of standing water where growth starts and a choke eventually forms. A drain that blocks in the same spot after every clearing is often telling you about the casing around it, not the drain.
This is why the trunking question deserves an answer at quote stage on multi-split systems. A System 3 or System 4 pushes several pipe pairs along at least part of a shared route. If nobody has walked that route and sized the casing to its widest section, the decision gets made by whoever is on the ladder with the material already cut.
Where trunking is joined, and why water appears there
Trunking is not one continuous piece. It arrives as straight lengths with moulded fittings for internal and external corners, flat bends, tees, joiners, and end caps where the run finishes at a wall penetration or the unit. Each piece is a base fixed to the surface with a cover clipped over it.
Every fitting is a seam, and a seam is both an entry and an exit: humid room air gets in, and water gets out. That is why a wet patch almost never sits directly below the actual fault. Water inside a casing runs downhill along the base until it meets the first gap, then leaves there.
If someone quotes a repair based on where the stain is without opening the run above it, push back. The stain marks the lowest gap, not the source, and tracing upward from the mark to the first joint costs nothing.
Corners are where sealing quality shows first. A straight length is easy to close properly; an internal corner in a ceiling void, worked overhead with limited clearance and no one watching, is where a rushed job leaves the cover proud of the base or skips the sealant. Look at corners first on a finished run.
Once water actually shows, the question stops being what trunking is. A leak along trunking casing narrows to three usual sources, and telling them apart runs on where the mark sits and how long the unit had been running before it appeared.
The two ends of a run
Both ends of a run are made differently from the middle, and both reward a look. At the indoor end the casing usually stops just short of the fan coil, leaving a short exposed stretch of pipe and drain hose bridging the gap into the unit. At the outdoor end it stops at the wall penetration, where the bundle passes through a sleeve and out to the condenser.
These are the two points where the finish tends to be weakest. The indoor gap is often left with the foam taped rather than sleeved, and tape does not stay closed in this climate. The wall penetration should be sealed and angled slightly downward, so rain runs out rather than in. An unsealed sleeve lets water track along the pipe to the room side, where it reads as a leak from the unit.
A run finished properly is easy to recognise at these two points. The foam continues right up to the body of the unit with no bare copper showing, and the sleeve is packed and sealed rather than left as an open hole with pipes through it.
Concealed or exposed, and what each costs later
A run can be surface-mounted on the wall, hidden above a false ceiling, or chased into the wall and plastered over. The three look different on handover day and behave very differently on the day something needs attention.
Surface trunking is the least attractive and the most serviceable. The cover lifts off, the fault is visible in minutes, and the repair stays confined to the section that failed. Most HDB installs run it along the ceiling line for that reason.
A false-ceiling route hides the run and keeps most of the access. The lines sit above a panel rather than behind plaster, so opening up means lifting a section of ceiling instead of breaking one. The trade is that nobody sees a problem developing: a drip that would mark a surface run straight away can wet a ceiling board unseen.
Chased and plastered piping is the tidiest and the least forgiving: there is no cover to lift, so reaching a joint means cutting the wall, making good, and accepting that the finish will never quite match. Concealment of that kind is reasonable when the run is short, straight and pressure-tested before it disappears, and a poor bet when the route has bends nobody has documented.
The question worth asking before anything gets covered is a plain one: if this run needs opening later, where does the opening happen and what gets damaged? A contractor with a ready answer has thought about the route; one who treats the question as pessimism has not.
What the condition of a run tells you
Trunking condition is a readable summary of the install behind it. The casing is the only part of the route a homeowner can inspect without tools. It is fixed by hand, in the open, at the end of a long day, and whatever discipline the install had tends to show up in the covers and corners.
Almost every visible fault on a run is reporting on its contents, not the plastic. PVC does not sag by itself; it sags because the fixings were spaced too far apart or the bundle inside is heavier than the profile was sized for. It does not discolour by itself either, so a yellowed length usually means sun exposure the route was never planned for, and a stained length means water has been inside long enough to carry dirt with it.
Covers that will not sit flush are the most common finding and the easiest to read: a cover fighting the bundle inside it is the crushed-insulation problem announcing itself before any water appears. That sign is worth acting on early, because the drip that follows is avoidable and the work is smaller before anything has sat wet.
| What you can see | What it usually means | What to do about it |
|---|---|---|
| A cover that will not sit flush, or clips that keep popping | The bundle inside is larger than the casing chosen for it | Have the run opened at that point before condensation starts |
| A yellowed or brittle length, always on the same side | That section takes sun the route was never planned for | Check the foam underneath, since sunlight ages insulation faster than PVC |
| A dark stain, or a seam that feels soft and swollen | Water has been inside long enough to carry dirt with it | Trace upward to the first joint above the mark, not the mark itself |
| A visible dip or a sag between fixings | Fixings spaced too far apart, or a bundle heavier than planned | Check the drain fall through the dip before anything else is quoted |
| Gaps at corners, or an end left uncapped | Corner fittings were rushed, or a piece was missing on the day | Have it sealed, then check for dust and insects already inside |
- What you can see
- A cover that will not sit flush, or clips that keep popping
- What it usually means
- The bundle inside is larger than the casing chosen for it
- What to do about it
- Have the run opened at that point before condensation starts
- What you can see
- A yellowed or brittle length, always on the same side
- What it usually means
- That section takes sun the route was never planned for
- What to do about it
- Check the foam underneath, since sunlight ages insulation faster than PVC
- What you can see
- A dark stain, or a seam that feels soft and swollen
- What it usually means
- Water has been inside long enough to carry dirt with it
- What to do about it
- Trace upward to the first joint above the mark, not the mark itself
- What you can see
- A visible dip or a sag between fixings
- What it usually means
- Fixings spaced too far apart, or a bundle heavier than planned
- What to do about it
- Check the drain fall through the dip before anything else is quoted
- What you can see
- Gaps at corners, or an end left uncapped
- What it usually means
- Corner fittings were rushed, or a piece was missing on the day
- What to do about it
- Have it sealed, then check for dust and insects already inside
What condition cannot tell you
None of this proves a fault on its own. A tidy run can still hide a badly made joint, and a scruffy one can be perfectly sound underneath. What the condition gives you is a reason to ask a sharper question and a place to point when you ask it.
Anything past that needs the cover off. Insulation thickness, drain fall and the state of a joint cannot be read through PVC, which makes them an on-site inspection rather than a photo call.
Common questions
What is aircon trunking?
Why is water dripping from the trunking?
Does the width of a trunking run matter?
Is concealed or exposed trunking better?
What gets checked on a trunking run?
Sources
- Air-conditioner installation works
Housing & Development Board · Checked
HDB placement and routing rules for piping, drainage and outdoor units.
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